Did you know there’s a tiny hamlet in Córdoba with more gnomes than people?
From 6 December through till the January 6th, Morente — a small outlying village of Bujalance in the province of Córdoba — transforms itself into a whimsical Christmas world. Hundreds of gnomes appear on every corner, turning the hamlet into a festive wonderland filled with lights, creativity, and the warmest, friendliest locals you could hope to meet.
The streets fill with gnomes, handmade decorations and lights — all crafted by the villagers themselves. And perhaps the most beautiful part of the story is how it began: this whole tradition was created during the Covid pandemic as a way to bring the elderly neighbours of Morente together during those lonely times.
And when we visited, something rather unexpected happened to us too…
I’ll tell you all about it just a little further down 👇
To help you get your bearings: Morente lies just 50 minutes from Córdoba city and around two hours by car from Málaga.
It’s the perfect spot for a Christmas escape, especially if you love small, characterful villages with a gentle pace and friendly locals.
Table of Contents
The Gnomes of Morente: a Story Straight from the Heart
It all began during those strange months of 2020.
Many of Morente’s residents — especially the older neighbours — were spending long days at home, unable to socialise or keep up their usual routines. So a small group of locals came up with an idea. They encouraged the village’s grandparents to meet (safely, of course) and make crafts together.
Using scraps of fabric, bits of felt, cardboard tubes and wool or whatever they had at home, they began creating tiny gnomes… without realising they were also starting one of the most heart-warming traditions in the province.
That first year, the villagers placed their handmade gnomes in the main square — and the result was so beautiful that they repeated it the following Christmas. Little by little, Morente transformed into what is now lovingly known as “The Gnome Village”.
Today, hundreds of gnomes decorate the streets, windows, balconies and hidden corners of the hamlet, each with its own personality. You’ll find musician gnomes, baker gnomes, gnomes wrapped in scarves knitted by the neighbours, and even gnome travellers who look as if they’ve stepped straight out of a storybook.
What began with 20 or 30 gnomes soon grew to 200, then 300… and this year more than 500 or even 600 gnomes will be waiting to welcome visitors for Christmas in Morente.
And in a village of barely 80 residents, you can imagine the impact: the decorations spill across every street, every doorstep, every wall. No wonder people say that “in Morente, there are more gnomes than people.”
Beyond the charming decorations — and yes, they truly are beautiful — what really moves you is the human story behind them.
The gnome workshops brought generations together, restored a sense of joy and revitalised a community affected by rural dispopulation. And you feel it as you walk through the village: Morente isn’t just decorated… it feels like it’s embracing you.
And speaking of that welcome… let me tell you what happened to us.
Our Experience in Morente, Cordoba
We discovered Morente last year, and it turned out to be one of those little trips that stays with you.
I’d seen photos and videos of the village on social media for months, and I knew I had to visit. But as often as not, we couldn’t seem to find the right moment. So when I had a day off — and Mike was working — I decided to book a small hotel for the night and take the girls on a little adventure, just the three of us.
The day before we set off, I posted a few Instagram stories saying that África, Zoe and I were heading to Morente to spend the night and finally see the famous Gnome Village for ourselves.
What happened next was truly special.
When we arrived, the village square was glowing with lights, music and neighbours enjoying the festive atmosphere. The girls didn’t know where to look — every corner was filled with gnomes, decorations and little touches of Christmas magic — and I was simply thrilled to finally be there.
We reached Morente after dark, so we made our way straight to the bonfires in the square, warming our hands by the flames while taking in the scene around us. It felt cosy, welcoming and quietly magical — the perfect start to our visit.
But the most moving part of all was what happened next.
Several neighbours came over to greet us — they had recognised us from the Instagram stories I’d posted the day before and were genuinely delighted that we’d come to visit their village. They welcomed us with open arms, warm smiles and hugs, and within minutes we felt completely at home.
In fact, after just five minutes, the people who had come to say hello dashed off to fetch their children so they could play with África and Zoe. They whisked the girls away to paint gnomes and join in the fun, while I found myself sitting with the neighbours, sharing a drink and soaking up the atmosphere — the decorations, the lights, the gnomes everywhere… but above all, the kindness of the people of Morente.
That afternoon I realised that Morente is so much more than a pretty Christmas setting. It’s a living, breathing community where everyone gets involved, where Christmas feels genuinely heartfelt, and where visitors are welcomed with a warmth you don’t easily forget. It was a magical experience — one I treasure deeply.
And, well… we loved it so much that we’ve just been back again — this time with Mike, who wasn’t about to miss it for a second year. And once again, the moment we stepped out of the car and headed towards the Gnome Park, someone called out: “Hey, weren’t you here last year?”
Three seconds later, África was already shooting arrows in the Gnome Park as if she’d never left.
What to See in Morente at Christmas
Even though the gnomes steal the show, Morente is full of tiny details worth slowing down for — decorated corners, twinkling lights and small surprises hidden in every street. Here’s what you shouldn’t miss:
The Village Square
The beating heart of Morente.
This is where everything happens: family treasure hunts, chocolate with churros, the migas competition, the Christmas market, zambombá singing, bonfires… The village bar brings out chairs and tables, and the square becomes the centre of Christmas life.
From here you can wander through Morente’s narrow streets and start spotting the 600-plus gnomes, each one different — shapes, sizes, colours and outfits, all handmade by the neighbours.
Christmas Workshops & Activities
Before you go, check the programme of events on Instagram at @morenteuncuentodenavidad so you don’t miss anything.
Activities for children usually take place in the Gnome Park, with archery, a mini zipline and Christmas crafts. One of the highlights is the family gincana run by TNT Aventura — a wild, hilarious treasure hunt through the village. If you see entire families running through Morente like excited detectives… now you know why 😜.
There’s also a Christmas market, zambombá, biscuit-decorating workshops, the migas competition (I was on the jury this year and had a blast), and even a pyjama contest. From morning to night, there’s always something happening.
The Gnome Trail
There isn’t an official route, but you can pick up a thematic map at the TNT Aventura cabin.
My advice? Wander without rushing.
Every house has its own little detail:
a gnome peeking from a window, another climbing a lamppost, one lounging in a flowerpot, gnomes in nativity scenes, sitting on benches, knitting, cooking…
The girls had the time of their lives trying to find “the funniest gnome”. Honestly, you could spend hours discovering new ones — and yes, I took about a million photos 📸.
Where to Eat in Morente
Morente is tiny, so all the life gathers around its village bar: La Tercia.
We ate wonderfully — homemade dishes, meats, fish, sandwiches and all the festive atmosphere you can imagine. At Christmas, the square fills with tables and there’s a lively buzz from morning to night.
You’ll also find the occasional food truck. We spotted a pizza truck, and later in the afternoon they served chocolate with churros — a perfect winter treat.
💡 Traveller tip: bring cash (there’s no ATM in the village) and wrap up warm — you’ll be outdoors most of the time, soaking up the atmosphere, the lights and the gnomes. And honestly, that’s the most magical part of the experience.
Where to Stay in Morente and Nearby
If you want the full experience, stay at least one night.
In Morente itself you’ll find Las Casas Rurales La Aguilita, a set of cosy rural cottages ideal for families. They’re right in the village, so you can walk everywhere, and in summer they even have a pool. They’re beautiful inside — full of charm and perfect for a quiet stay.
If accommodation in Morente is full (easily done as at time of writing there were only 3 rural houses), you can also stay in nearby Bujalance or El Carpio.
Places to Visit Near Morente
If you’re in the area, it’s well worth exploring some of the lovely places nearby:
Bujalance and the “ Leaning Tower of Andalusian”
Just 10 minutes away lies the town of Bujalance, proudly recognised as one of Spain’s Pueblos Mágicos.
Did you know its church tower is nicknamed the “Andalusian Tower of Pisa”?
The Tower of La Asunción leans ever so slightly — enough to earn it its charming comparison to the Italian icon. Right next to it, you can visit the Alcazaba Castle, where you can climb down into the ancient cisterns. The Archaeological Museum is also well worth a stop, as is the fascinating Arquitectura del Sol phenomenon that takes place in the town.
Another place we absolutely loved was the Hermitage of Nuestro Padre Jesús. It sits on the outskirts but is an easy walk from the centre. We visited on a misty winter morning, when the fog slowly lifted — the atmosphere was magical. There’s also a huge playground next to it, perfect if you’re travelling with children and need to let them burn some energy 👌
If you enjoy olive oil, you’re right in the heart of the Campiña Cordobesa, so don’t leave without tasting it or visiting a local olive mill. There are eight mills in Bujalance — olive oil is part of the town’s history, culture and economy.
Oh, and you really can’t go without trying the town’s famous patatas rellenas — stuffed potatoes that are absolutely delicious. We tried them at Restaurante El Tomate, where they make them exceptionally well. The recipe originates from Bujalance and is so iconic that the town even celebrates a Patatas Rellenas Festival. We’re hoping to go next year 🤤
Maruanas
Only 10 minutes from Bujalance — or 20 minutes from Morente — you’ll find another tiny hamlet that has joined the festive fun. Maruanas, part of the municipality of El Carpio, decorates its streets with elves and Christmas figures, becoming a sort of “sister village” to Morente.
There’s not as much activity or atmosphere as in Morente (not even close), but it’s a surprisingly delightful stop. We all loved it. The village is full of little scenes, handmade figures and charming corners that make it well worth a short visit.
Just keep in mind that it’s very small — aside from the houses and decorations, there’s nothing else there.
Useful Information
📍 Location: Morente, a small hamlet belonging to Bujalance (Córdoba).
How to Get There
From Córdoba city → around 40 minutes via the A-306 towards El Carpio, then continue on the CO-4203.
From Málaga → about 2 hours via the A-45 and A-316, passing Lucena and Bujalance.
When to Visit Morente
- Christmas season: from 6 December to 6 January, when the entire hamlet transforms into a gnome-filled festive village with lights, activities and decorations.
- Spring & autumn: even without the gnomes, the surrounding countryside is beautiful and peaceful.
How Much Time Do You Need?
You can visit Morente comfortably in half a day, but staying one night is ideal. You’ll enjoy the lights at dusk, take part in the activities and soak up the festive atmosphere without rushing — and you’ll get to share more moments with the lovely people of the village.
Traveller Tip
Bring cash (there’s no ATM in the village), dress warmly and wear comfortable shoes. You’ll spend most of your time outdoors — and that’s exactly the charm of Morente: the fresh air, the laughter, the lights and the magic of the gnome village.
Take Care of the Place… or Rather, Take Care of the Gnomes
We usually include a “respect the environment” section in our articles — because, as travellers, we share the responsibility of protecting the places we visit.
But in Morente, there’s something even more delicate to look after: the gnomes.
I honestly couldn’t believe it when the neighbours told me that a few gnomes have mysteriously “disappeared” over the years. And the thing is… these little creatures are quite happy living in Morente — they have no intention of going anywhere! But some visitors (I assume meaning well?) have taken them home as souvenirs. Sad, but true.
If you’re travelling with children, they’ll almost certainly want to touch every single one — they’re irresistible. Just remind them to be gentle. Each gnome takes time, love and a whole lot of effort to make, and the village hopes they’ll be around for many more Christmases to come 💖
How much does it cost to visit?
The visit is completely free to see the gnomes and the town. Drinks are on you and some of the activities have a small cost.
Are there activities for children?
Yes — workshops, treasure hunts, archery, crafts and family games every weekend. It’s a brilliant destination for families.
When can you visit the Gnome in Morente, Cordoba?
From 6 December to 6 January. All the Christmas decorations remain in place throughout the festive season.
About the Authors:
This article was written by Lucía and Mike, the couple behind Andalusia Uncovered and the creators of Bloguera Viajera, one of Andalusia’s leading family travel websites, where we have spent years sharing our experiences exploring Spain and beyond.
Andalusia Uncovered grew from a simple idea: to create an English-language resource based on real experiences, not recycled travel advice. Every place we write about is somewhere we have personally visited, photographed and explored ourselves.
Lucía grew up in Spain and Mike moved here from England in 2010. Together, we have spent years discovering Andalusia’s cities, white villages, beaches, mountains and lesser-known corners, often with our two daughters in tow.
In a world increasingly filled with generic AI-generated content, we believe first-hand experience matters more than ever. Our aim is to provide honest recommendations, practical advice and genuine local insight to help you discover the real Andalusia for yourself.